Methods and apparatus for constructing knitted brassiere blanks and brassieres

ABSTRACT

There is disclosed as an article of manufacture an integrally knit blank shaped to allow for the reorientation of the wales along the apex of the cup and to allow for the reorientation of the wales along the body of the breast receiving elements at least along the area which will comprise the lower cup portion, to an orientation other than originally knitted. There is also disclosed a flat boarding arrangement as the shaping apparatus as well as the stabilizing form. The method of knitting and shaping generally includes the steps of integrally knitting, with at least some heat setting yarns a blank having relatively concial breast pockets and a relative flat apex area; reorienting a portion of the yarns in the apex area to provide a relatively rounded apex configuration; and heat setting the blank to retain the apex area in such relatively rounded configuration.

United States Patent [19] Cole et al.

[ Jan. 29, 1974 METHODS AND APPARATUS FOR CONSTRUCTING KNITTED BRASSIEREBLANKS AND BRASSIERES -[73] Assignee: International Playtex Corporation,

New York, NY.

[22] Filed: June 11, 1971 [21] Appl. No.: 152,245

[58] Field of Search 66/176, 189, 175, 96 R, 89; 223/52, 66, 68;264/103, 292; 128/516 [56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTSRosenthal 66/176 2,966,785 1/1961 Gofi' et al 66/176 3,092,987 6/1963Levine 3,356,271 12/1967 Sobel 223/66 3,500,665 3/1970 Braxton et al.66/ 176 Primary ExaminerWm. Carter Reynolds Attorney, Agent, orFirmStewart J. Fried; Jefirey A. Schwab; Michael A. Caputo [571 ABSTRACTThere is disclosed as an article of manufacture an integrally knit blankshaped to allow for the reorientation of the wales along the apex of thecup and to allow for the reorientation of the wales along the body ofthe breast receiving elements at least along the area which willcomprise the lower cup portion, to an orientation other than originallyknitted. There is also disclosed a flat boarding arrangement as theshaping apparatus as well as the stabilizing form. The method ofknitting and shaping generally includes the steps of integrallyknitting, with at least some heat setting yarns a blank havingrelatively concial breast pockets and a relative flat apex area;reorienting a portion of the yarns in the apex area to provide arelatively rounded apex configuration; and heat setting the blank toretain the apex area in such relatively rounded configuration.

16 Claims, 13 Drawing Figures PMENTED 3.789.098

SHEET 1 OF 4 ms. RAYMOND c. cou: WILLIAM c. HITTEL W JAMES o. DONAGHYPATEHTEU SHEEI 2 OF 4 FIG. 5B

RAYMOND C. COLE JESS-.098

PATENTEU-WZQ NU t (If 4 FIG. 9

RAYMOND c. COLE WILLIAM C. HITTEL JAMES G. DONAGHY METHODS AND APPARATUSFOR CONSTRUCTING KNITTED BRASSIERE BLANKS AND BRASSIERES The presentinvention relates to a knitted brassiere blank, brassieres and methodsand apparatus for constructing the same.

Brassieres are generally formed of a variety of individual cut-outpattern pieces which are sewn together to form various brassiereconstituents, e.g. cups, dorsal or side panels, shoulder straps, etc. Inturn, the constituents are then sewn together to form a finishedgarment.

The most difficult portions of the brassiere to construct, in terms ofthe cutting and sewing operations are the cups or breast receivingelements, since the finished cups as sewn are formed into conical, threedimensional units.

While cups constructed of various constituent pieces do provide a shapedpocket for the reception of the breast, contouring of the cup to theactual shape of the breast is difficult. While a more natural contouringof the cups may be approached in a sewn cup, this generally requires thecup to be fabricated of a relatively large number of component cupsegments successively joined along adjacent edges. While the resultantcup more closely approximates the actual contour of the breast, thesewing operation becomes complex, more expensive and results in a largenumber of seams in each cup portion. Such excessive seaming may beundesirable as detracting from the natural look presently in vogue.

Thus, most sewn cups are generally constructed today from two segmentsjoining along a common edge. One segment forms the upper cup area andthe other segment forms the lower cup area with the seam runninglongitudinally and somewhat medially through the cup. In some instances,the lower cup segment is itself a twopiece construction thus adding avertical seam to the lower cup portion generally running from the apexor nipple receiving area of the cup vertically downward to the loweredge of the lower cup constituent.

These so-called two-piece or three-piece cups are relatively inexpensiveto fabricate and have found large commercial acceptance, however thelimitation of the cup constituents to two or three pieces limits thedegree of contouring which can be effected especially with regard to therather subtle curvatures along the inner and outer sides of the breast.

The result is that the cups mold the breast not visa versa with littleif any degree of personalization" of the cups to the natural contour ofthe women.

Various attempts have been made to overcome this problem. Stretchable oryieldable materials have been incorporated into the cups. While morenatural contouring was effected there is a correlative loss of support.Molding of cups has also been developed, whereby a sheet of heatstabilizing material is die molded to a given configuration. Since thedies can be pre-shaped, as molded, the cups incorporate the more naturalcontour of the breast. However, the molding of breast cups is notwithout many problems. The shaping and stabilization of the material isnot always pennanent or sufficiently long-lived to make a productadaptable for a relatively long use period. Further the moldingoperation not only stabilizes the cup fabric, but additionally, incertain instances rigidizes certain areas of the fabric. In someinstances, the area of rigidizing is not in desirable locations, thusadversely affecting the fit and supportive features of the cup orotherwise serves to unbalance the cup.

In lieu of a sewn cup of a molded cup, it has been suggested thatknitting techniques be employed in fabricating the bra-ssiere. Knittinghas many desirable features. Firstly, seams in the cup can be completelyeliminated. Thus, the seam lines of the sewn cups which are oftentimesoutlines through clinging outer gannents are eliminated. Further, withinlimits proscribed by the knitting equipment, a more natural shaping ofthe cups may be effected.

In more recent years, it has been recognized that flat bed hosieryequipment can be adapted to a knitting program which will allow for theknitting of a griege blank in a form suitable for finishing into abrassiere. In particular, U.S. Pat. No. 3,092,987 to Levine and U.S.Pat. No. 3,500,665 to Braxton et al. generally describe brassiere blanksknit on a flat bed knitting machine. Similarly, techniques such asdisclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,537,279 to Epley employing circularknitting equipment have also been developed to knit brassiere blanks.

The prior art flat bed full fashion hosiery knitting techniques form anelongate brassiere blank by continuously knitting from one end to theother and successively widening and narrowing to form a pair of breastcups or pockets. The prior art circular knitting machine generallyemploys the technology employed in knitting the heel portion of astocking to knit an elongate brassiere blank. It has been found that theblanks knit by either method while providing satisfactory brassiere cupportions do not adequately provide sufficient support to functionproperly as a brassiere unless further steps are taken to stabilize orset the yarns of the knitted blanks into their predetermined shapes.

Thus, it has been found necessary to emplace the knit blanks over formsgenerally correlating to the contour of the blank and hydrosetting theblank in an autoclave. The knitted blank is thus stabilized so as tomore per manently retain its knitted pre-determined shape when subjectedto the weight and deformation stresses emplaced upon it by a wearer.

The process thus initially appears akin to that heretofore describedwith respect to molding, however, in lieu of the cup constituentsstarting as a sheet of heat stabilizing material, which are shaped bythree dimensional dies, the cups are first pre-shaped by knitting andthen subjected to three dimensional dies.

However, these techniques do not fully solve the problem. Where flat bedfull fashioning equipment is employed, the prior art teaches aparticular sequence of widening and narrowing along either side of amedial row of plain knit wales to effect a three dimensional shapingespecially in the apex or nipple area of the cups. In practice,fashioning in this manner results in a relatively large number of walesin the apex or nipple area. These additional wales while required tofashion the cups provide an undesirable effect in the finished blank inthat the additional wales form a pocket in the nipple area which islarger than required thus adversely affecting the fit and aestheticappeal of the brassiere. Further, the ability of the garment to losesupport or sag is heightened, since there is an excess of wales, thereis a greater tendency for the lower cup area to give as the weight ofthe breast pulls downward on the lower cup area of the brassiere.

Even absent the problems presented due to the excess of wales in apex ornipple area, there is an arcuate orientation of wales in the bustreceiving elements and there is thus a natural prediliction of thesecurved areas to give, due to their shape, under the weight and stressesof the breast. Thus, prior workers have found it desirable, in order toprovide a functional garment, to add in fairly substantial numbers,reinforcing yarns along the lower cup portion of the brassiere blank. Interms of a knitting program, there is thus required a more complexarrangement since the lower cup portion has a different knittedstructure than the upper breast cup portion.

Not only are there problems in the knitting as above described, further,the stabilization step requires threedimensional forms and relativelylarge autoclaves to accept the forms. There are also problems ofregistry and affixation of the blanks to the forms to provide a properpositioning as between the two as well as the problem of uniformity interms of emplacing the same portion of the blank over the same portionof the form in order to mass produce brassiere blanks having likeconsistencies of shape and stability.

According to the present invention, all of the above disadvantages areobviated by the provision of an integrally knit brassiere blank knitwith at least some of the yarns being heat setting, with such integrallyknit brassiere blank having a first configuration or orientation ofwales. After knitting the blank is shaped so as to reorient the wales inselected areas to a different finished configuration with the blankstabilized with the wales in their reoriented finished position. Thatis, the knit brassiere blank is knit to a first configuration and afterknitting, shaped to a preselected, different finished configuration.

As more particularly described, the present invention provides as anarticle of manufacture an integrally knit blank shaped to allow for thereorientation of the wales along the apex of the cup to a selectedcurvature and to allow for the reorientation of the wales along the bodyof the breast receiving elements at least along the area which willcomprise the lower cup portion.

In lieu of the three-dimensional forms hereinbefore described, it hasbeen found desirable to employ a flat boarding arrangement as theshaping apparatus as well as the stabilizing form. Advantageously, theflat board may be used to shape and stabilize two blanks,simultaneously.

By affixing two blanks together along their respective selvages it ispossible to reorient such apex wales in two blanks simultaneously. Thepreferred apparatus for shaping and reorienting selected yarns of theblanks employs an elongated flat board having at least two shapingsurfaces extending laterally outward of the board, with each of theshaping surfaces adapted to stress portions of the blank in selectedareas. Preferably the shaping surfaces are reciprocating, that isextensible and retractable to provide for selective pressures and alsoto allow for proper positioning of the shaping board and the blank priorto the exertion of the shaping force.

The blank itself is preferably a full fashioned knit brassiere blankhaving knit wales extending longitudinally of the blank; fashionedbreast cups; a row of fashioning mark lines extending longitudinallythrough the breast cups; each of the breast cups including sections ofwidened and narrowed knit courses extending transversely of the blank toopposite selvages thereof, and an area of straight knitting whichextends through the apex of the cup between the sections of widened andnarrowed knit courses with at least a portion of the yarns in thestraight knit area adapted to be reoriented under stress and set asreoriented. Preferably an identical knitting pattern is followed alongeither side of the fashioning mark lines.

There is thus hereinafter described a method of knitting and shaping abreast receiving article generally including the steps of integrallyknitting, with at least some heat setting yarns a blank havingrelatively conical breast pockets and relative flat apex area;reorienting a portion of the wales in the apex area to provide arelatively rounded apex configuration; and heat setting the blank toretain the apex area in such relatively rounded configuration.

Although the features believed to be characteristic of the invention arepointed out in the claims, the invention in a manner in which it may becarried out may be further understood by reference to the followingdescription and the accompanying drawings.

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a blank knit in accordance with theteachings of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a side elevation of the blank of FIG. 1 as viewed lying flat.

FIG. 3 schematically shows the knitting sequence for the cup areas of asingle cup of the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a plan view of two blanks knit in accordance with the presentinvention and then sewn together along their respective selvages.

FIG. 5A is a top plan view of a flat forming board used to finally shapea pair of knit blank in accordance with the present invention.

FIG. 5B is a side elevation of the shaping board of FIG. 5A.

FIG. 5C is a side elevation of an alternate shaping board used to shapea single blank of the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a sectional view of a laterally expandable shaping board ofthe present invention.

FIG. 7 is a perspective view of a three-dimensional shaping member whichmay alternatively be used in the practive of the present invention.

FIG. 8 is a plan view of a pattern for the upper cup section of abrassiere having cup portions constructed in accordance with the presentinvention.

FIG. 9 is a plan view of a pattern for the bottom cup section of abrassiere having cup portions constructed in accordance with the presentinvention.

FIG. 10 is a plan view of a brassiere constructed in accordance with theteachings of the present invention, shown laid out flat.

FIG. 11 is a perspective view of a brassiere of FIG. 10 shown as worn.

Referring now to the figures where like numbers denote like parts fromthe various figures.

In FIG. 1 there is illustrated a knit bra blank 1 which is knitlongitudinally on a flat bed full fashioned hosiery machine. The blank 1is generally comprised of a pair of knit breast pockets 2,3 with a pairof fashioning mark lines 4,5 extending longitudinally through the breastcups.

The dark lines on the blank 1 schematically represent some of the wales,it being understood that courses extend transversally across the wales,between the selvages of the blank.

through the apex area and, the apex area on either side of the straightknit wales 4,5 are knit in an identical manner. There is thus eliminatedthe problems of excess wales in the nipple or apex area hereinbefore de-A number of plain wales generally indicated by the 5 scribed. number 6longitudinally extend between the fashioning Th areas A, B, C, d D are ki respectively imark lines 4,5. AS knit, the blank 1 further provides amultaneously with areas A,B,C and D and are respecbridging area 7between the knit pockets tively identical on either side of the plainknit wales 4,5.

While the blank as knit has a shape which generally conforms to that ofa breast receiving garment, the 10 It should be noted that theconfiguration thus efblank 1 is k to Provide Pockets having a contour offected by the knitting of the blank 1 in its knitted stage a lesserVohhhe and more angular oriehtatloh of areas provides a blank 1 having acontour, in particular in the than in the finished brassiel'eareasthrough the apex or nipple receiving area E (FIG.

This is e Clearly Show" hi 3 which is a some 2,3) dissimilar to theshape of the nipple of the breast. what schematic representation of acup knitting se- In lieu f ftl convexed nipple area, the blank 1quell-Ce; periphiralshape i lh Sewage wi vides a relatively flatprofile. There is thus provided a the P f f' mdcated as 6 F extendmgknitted blank 1 having pockets 2,3 whose nipple area f longltudmany theSchemanc represen' E contour is less convex than desirable in a finishedtatlon between the fashioning mark llnes 4,5.

As lllsutrated in FIG. 3, there are at least three areas while theSelection ofyams will vary depending upon and D and preferably fourSequential kmmng areas the artisan the following yarns have been foundreadily A,B,C and D. Each delineated area represents a partlc- Suitable:ular fashioning sequence. It should be noted that the v I W fashioningis identical both above e e h tz g e thil' i h gli rl g l zi t ionship)lN MAIN BODY OF BLANK plam wale portlons (excluding any lndlcla markingas Total Denier- 145 l.l/l0O/34, that thereinafter discussed.) is Singledenier 34 I The representation and the data following representsfilament yam f ;f,,,;,,, the knitting and fashioning sequences withrespect to a monofilament size 34B brassiere blank, however, it is to beunder- 'z 3 (single ply'ls enler monofilament) 2. l/20/7, that is singleply20 stood that an appropriate modlficatlon of the sequence denierseven filament l and 2 will adapt it to any size brassiere desired. areadded knit selected proportions to the I45 In the illustrative example,there are 196 wales denier in side portions transversally from selvageto selvage in the body arrive at the 180 total e portion of the blankwhere the fashioning sequences for the formation of the pockets begins.The number Once the blank 1 has been knit, it is then subjected ofwalesis increased in the following manner: to a further shaping P- Thusfurther shaping p is In the area delineated by A there is indiciaknitting, Preferably effected y a hat hoarding arrangement, that isthere is fashioning in a manner so as to readily more Particularlydescribed hereinafter- However provide visual identity to the brassiere,such as by knit- 40 other means Such as through the use of speciallyConfigting as follows 3 [1X2] [1X4]; that is, three repeats ofthree-dimensional molds y be p y The a sequence of adding one wale forevery two courses p g Teahghs the wales, hi l'iarheular in the pp d th ai l repeat f one l f every f area and along the adjacent areas on eitherside of the courses. plain knit wales 4,5 to provide an outwardlyrounded In the area marked B the knitting sequ nce i 61 contoured shapeto the nipple area and further, to pro- [1x2] th t th is repeated thdditi of on wal vide a less arcuate orientation of wales through thatfor every two courses 61 times. portion of the blank which will besubjected to the The apex area C is knit 40 straight. The inner cupgreatest distortional forces of the breast, to wit; the area D is knit65 [1X2], that there is repeated 65 times central lower portion of theblank. thus, not only has a decreasing of one wale every two courses.the problem of excess wales in the nipple area been Stated in anothermanner, a blank for a size 34B braseliminated, but the degree ofcurvature of the wales has siere can be made in the following method:been modified with a resultant decrease in the predilic- Courses Totalper wales Total wales cup, at Fashioning method adjustedflllm l 302start Total wales at apex 3 8:2): 2 196 Start 1963(1x2)(1x4)61\lx2)(40Stt8ight)65(lx2) 61 31 3: 6(1) 122 .1111: One sideknitto a et-.- as (1x2)= 65 III: Other side knittoapex.. 65

Total 130 302 32s 1 As follows.

i it stands e noted readi'lyby theahove'and FIG. 3

that the apex area is straight knot as distinguished from 6 weight ofthe breast.

fashioned. In lieu of the rather complex knitting program which isheretofore been employed, especially along the apex area there is nowidening and narrowing While the shaping of the blank 1 may be effectedin a number of ways, FIG. 46 illustrate the preferred process andapparatus therefore.

As shown in FIG. 4 the blank 1 is sewn along its selvage edges [only oneshown] 9 to another blank 8 of like construction. There is thus provideda tubular arrangement of two blanks l, 8, having an opening 10 intowhich the shaping mechanism may be emplaced.

In lieu of the opening formed by the distal end portion of the sewntogether blanks l, 8 it will be noted in FIG. 4 that the opposite distalend portion, instead of being open, is sewn shut in a straighttransverse line to provide a closed end arrangement 11.

As hereinafter more particularly described, the closed end is adapted toseat a portion of the shaping mechanism so as to provide for aregistered alignment and orientation of the blanks. However, it is to beunderstood that in lieu of the closed end arrangement 11, both ends maybe open.

Inserted internally within the chamber formed by the sewn togetherblanks l, 8 is a flat shaping board such as shaping board 12 illustratedin FIGS. 5A and 5B. The shaping board 12 is a relatively flatlongitudinally ending member having respective pairs of laterallyextending diametrically opposed shaping protuberances 13 along itslongitudinal side edges. The shaping protuberances may be generallydescribed as having a substantially curvilinear hemispheric profile.

While the shaping board 12 illustrated is configured in a manner whichwill allow the shaping of two blanks simultaneously, such as the blanks1,8 of FIG. 4, a single blank, can be shaped by a board such as theboard 14 shown in FIG. 5C.

The board 12 protuberances 13 which serve as the shaping surfaces forthe blank 1 or blanks 1,8 have a peripheral contour somewhat dissimilarto that of the knit blank. While generally hemispheric in shape theouter side 15 of the protuberances 13 are somewhat concave; the innersides 17 are somewhat convex and the apex area 16 is concave.

Thus, when the board 12 is emplaced within the sleeve or chamber formedby the sewn together blanks 1,8 stress in selected areas is exerted onthe blanks 1,8 thus forcing the blanks 1,8 to shape.

The most notable deviation from the initially knit shape is in therespective apex area E of the blank 1 as it is contoured by therespective apex area 16 of the board protuberance 13. This primary areaof shaping however interacts with other areas of the blank to alter tosome degree other major areas of the blank. For example, the stress inthe apex area E aids in the molding of the area of the blank adjacentthe apex area E to the convex inner sides 17 and concave outer sides 15of the board 14. This prestressing provides in the finished blank aroundness and a shaping closely following the supple contours of thebreast, thus effecting a more natural cup shape.

Additionally the stress exerted transversely along the blanks 1,8 fromthe apex of one blank 1, to the apex of its mated blank 8 causes thewales extending along the line of stress to deviate from their initiallyknit orientation (See FIG. 1) to a given curvature. It has been foundthat such reorientation, after the blanks 1,8 are stabilized has asalutory effect in terms of the supportive capabilities of the finishedbrassiere in that the lesser degree of curvature in the area along thecentral underside of the breast deters the brassiere from sagging.

As shown in FIG. 5A and 5B, one end 18 of the board 12 is stepped so asto provide an omega shape. In emplacing the board within the chamberformed by the sewn together blanks 1,8, the omega shaped end portion ofthe board is positioned in juxtaposition to the sewn together endportions 11 of the blanks 1,8.

The omega shaped end relaxes the tensions along the end portions of theblanks 1,8 and allows the blanks 1,8 to be selectively deformed by theprotuberance portions 13 of the board 12.

So as to insure uniformity and proper tensioning of the blanks 1,8 bythe board 12, gripping means such as pins or clamps may be providedalong the opposite end 19 of the board 12. Additionally, and aspreviously state, the blanks 1,8 may be knit in a manner such thatindicia markings discernible to the trained eye are preknit into theblank affording a registration point for the gripping means. The pin orgripping means placement may be chosen to effect an equalization oftensions such as by providing for securement along the central widtharea of the ends of the blanks 1,8, thus allowing one end outer portionof the sewn together blanks 1,8 to remain free.

In terms of removal after setting, the stitching affixing the blanks 1,8is merely removed and the two, now separated blanks 1 and 8 can beremoved from the shaping mechanism.

Where, such as shown in FIG. 5C, the board 14 is adapted to shape asingle blank means such as clamps 20 are provided along thenon-protuberance edges of the board 14 to retain the blank in apreselected manner on the board.

While the nature of the knitting yarns prior to their being stabilizedor set into their final shape may allow for the emplacement of a board12 within the chamber formed by sewn together blanks 1,8 and extensibleand retractable board 21 such as illustrated in FIG. 6 may be employed.

As illustrated in FIG. 6 the board 21 is a tubular arrangement whichalthough more structured is akin to a pants stretcher. The board 21extends longitudinally (with only a portion of the board 21 illustrated)so as to generally define a shape like that of the board 12 of FIGS. 5Aand 5B including the omega shaped end, but absent the preshapedprotuberances 13 of the board 12. The board 21 of FIG. 6 providestransversely extensible and retractable units 23, which in extendedposition define shaping protuberances like the protuberances 13 of FIG.5A.

Extensibility may be effected in a variety of ways. FIG. 6 illustrated ahydraulically actuating arrangement including an H shaped unit 24 havinghollow legs 25 which act as tracks for the roller 26 mounter extensibleunits 27. The bridge 28 of the H shaped unit 24 acts as a mount for thehydraulic rams 29 and a conduit for the hydraulic fluid conduit 30. Therams 29 may be actuated to extend or retract with the outer end 31 ofeach ram 29 secured to the inner surface of the extensi- 9195 35231.

The sewn together blanks 1,8 of FIG. 4 are emplaced over the frame 22when the extensible units 27 are in retracted position. After the blanks1,8 are secured, as aforedescribed, the extensible units 27 are actuatedto their extended position and the blanks 1,8 are subjected to theshaping forces hereinbefore described.

It can be appreciated that the aforedescribed means and arrangementallowing for extensible and retractable unit is but one of manyarrangements which may be su ably, mplax d- As shown in FIG. 7 in lieuof what may be termed the flat shaping techniques hereinbeforedescribed, the blanks knit in accordance with the present invention maybe shaped on a three-dimensional shaping form 32. The shaping form 32generally provides a dual upper torso arrangement having shaped bustprotuberances 33. The knit blanks are sewn together along theirtransverse edges as distinguished from the longitudinal edge joining ofFIG. 4. The sewn together blanks are then emplaced over the shaping form32 with the shape of the blanks altered by the shaping form 32 in amanner akin to that previously described.

It is to be understood that the knitting technique may be variedsomewhat where three-dimensional forced shaping as distinguished fromflat shaping is concerned. Indicia knitting may be employed to providefor ease of transverse edge registry. Additionally, both the shapingform 32 bust protuberances 33 would be threedimensionally shaped toprovide proper concavity and convexity in selected areas.

Once the blank or blanks 1,8 have been emplaced upon the shapingstructure and secured, the blank is set into shape. This may be readilyaccomplished by employing in the knitting of the blank, heat stabilizingor setting yarns and by subjecting the boarded blanks to heat. While anyheat means may be employed, hydrosetting in an autoclave has been foundparticularly suitable. It should be noted that while the yarns arestabilized by the heat, they need not be rigidized.

Once set, the blanks 1,8 are removed from the autoclave and the shapingmeans, the blanks may then be finished in any desired manner to form afinished brassiere. While the steps may vary depending upon the desiredend result, FIGS. 8-10 illustrate a preferred method of completing thebrassiere so as to provide a garment having enhanced characteristics.

As aforedescribed, to provide for ease in knitting, shaping and registrythe areas on either side of the central plain knit wales 6 between thefashioning marks 4,5 of the blank 1 are the same. However, asillustrated in FIG. 8 that portion of the blank which will in a finishedbrassiere act as the upper cup portions may be cut along its selvage toprovide an arcuate inwardly curved line 34 centrally between thebrassiere strap or tab locations 35 and a slightly outwardly curved linealong each tab location 35 and the medial fashioning line 4 of theblank.

The lower cups are cut in the general shape illustrated in FIG. 9, thatis with the selvage cut to provide an arcuate underbust line 36, convexwith respect to the fashioning line 4 and with a concave line extendingbetween the fashioning line 4 and the arcuate underburst line 36.

The foregoing cutting of the blank provides a brassiere 38 (shown inFIGS. -11) having a common medial fashioning line 4 with biased pitchedouter edges 39. The pitch is highly desirable in terms of proper fittingof the brassiere 10. The human torso in the chest area is shapedsomewhat like a truncated inverted cone. When laid flat, the pitchedbrassiere describes an arc, as shown in FIG. 10, however, when wrappedabout the body, a proper contouring to the torso is effected.

A single circumferential band or a pair of dorsal or side panels 40 ofany desired material are attached to the blank along its outer sideedges and it two side panels 40 are employed, conventional closure means41 (e.g. hook and eye) is provided to complete the bras siere 40.Shoulder straps extend from the upper portion of the blank and aresecured along the rear of the brassiere.

It is to be appreciated that in lieu of the aforedescribed method ofproviding a desirable pitch to the blank, it is also possible to knitthe dorsal portions integrally with the frontal area of the blank andprovide the desired pitch, by selective cutting, tucking, sewing ordarting of the dorsal portions.

It has been found that along with the aforementioned enumeratedadvantages effected by the teachings of the present invention variousadditional highly desirable results result. For example, the absence offashioning in the nipple or apex of the blank results in a lessperceptive difference in opacity as between the main body portion of theblank and the nipple or apex area E.

Even with the denier yarns previously described which are of arelatively light denier, the reorientation of the wales, asaforedescribed provides a relatively firm supportive brassiere.

Where the flat boarding shaping is employed, aside from the economieseffected in board costs, and the required size of autoclave needed, theproblems of registry are lessened especially in view of there being lessvariables and surfaces for the worker to contend with. Additionally, theflat boards may be of uniform thickness irrespective of size, with thevariations in size determined by the size of the protuberances.

While the aforedescribed description sets forth the basic steps ofknitting a blank, preferably longitudinally sewing two blanks together,shaping the blanks preferably by flat boarding, setting and finishingthe blanks into a brassiere, it is appreciated that after knitting theblanks are subjected to many other processing steps, suchas scouring,dyeing, brightening, etc..

Although the foregoing description has been particularly set forth withrespect to brassiere blanks and brassieres made therefrom, it is to beappreciated, that the term brassiere as employed contemplates any breastreceiving article such as halters, bathing suit tops and other breastreceiving outerwear, as well as breast receiving liners for garments.

The terms and expressions employed herein are used as terms ofdescription; it is recognized though that various modifications arepossible.

Having thus described certain forms of the invention in some detail,what is claimed is:

1. A method of knitting and shaping breast receiving articles comprisingthe steps of:

integrally knitting a breast receiving blank from yarns, at least aportion of which are heat setting, said blank having a relatively flatbody portion and two spaced apart relatively conical breast pockets,each of said breast pockets including a relatively flat apex area;

knitting a second breast receiving blank;

securing said second breast receiving blank to the originally knit blankalong respective longitudinal selvages of each of said blanks to form ahollow chamber defined by said blanks;

simultaneously re-orienting said portion of the yarns in the respectiveflat apex areas on both of said blanks to provide a relatively roundedapex configuration by exerting a shaping force internal of said hollowchamber; and

heat setting said blank to retain said apex areas in shaped relativelyrounded configuration.

2. The method as claimed in claim 1 wherein said reorientation includesthe step of inserting an elongated flat shaping board having laterallyextending shaped protuberances adapted to shape at least the apex areasof said breast receiving pockets within the chamber formed by saidsecured together blanks.

3. The method as claimed in claim 2 wherein said whereby said shapingboard is inserted within said chamber formed by said secured togetherblanks with said protuberances in retracted position, said protuberancesbeing extended when said board is within said chamber.

4. The method as claimed in claim 2 wherein each of said protuberancesof said shaping board include a peripheral contour having a concaveouter edge, a convex inner edge, and a concave apex between said outerand inner edges.

5. The method as claimed in claim 1 further including the step ofsecuring one distal end of each of said blanks transversely to provide aclosed end chamber defined by said blanks.

6. The method as claimed in claim 5 wherein said reorientation stepincludes the step of inserting a flat shaping board having laterallyextending shaped protuberances adapted to shape at least the apex areasof said breast receiving pockets within said flat shaping board includesat least one end portion having a peripheral stepped shape, said lastreferred to end portion adapted to seat along said closed end of saidsewn together blanks.

7. The method as claimed in claim 6 wherein said stepped shape is anomega shape.

8. The method as claimed in claim 1 further including the step ofseparating said blanks and incorporating each said blank, after saidheat setting step as the frontal portion of a brassiere.

9. The method as claimed in claim 8 wherein said incorporating stepincludes the steps of cutting the outer side edges of each said blank toan inclined orientation.

10. The method as claimed in claim 8 wherein said incorporating stepfurther includes the step of cutting one selvage edge of each said blankto provide a concave line from first points along the lateral edges ofsaid blank to respective second points along said selvage spaced apartand laterally offset from the respective apex areas of said blank andcutting a convex line which extends downward through the area betweensaid breast receiving pockets between said second points.

11. The method as claimed in claim 1 wherein the knitting of said blanksis effected by a flat bed full fashioning machine.

12. An apparatus for shaping a pair of brassiere blanks comprising anelongated flat board having at least two shaping surfaces extendinglaterally of said board, each of said shaping surfaces adapted to stressportions of one of said blanks in selected areas and at least twoadditional shaping surfaces extending laterally of said board along thelongitudinal edge of said board opposed to said first pair of shapingsurfaces adapted to stress selected areas of the other said blank.

13. The apparatus as claimed in claim 12 wherein one end of said boardis stepped.

14. The apparatus as claimed in claim 13 wherein said stepped endportion defines a peripheral omegalike shape.

15. The apparatus as claimed in claim 12 wherein each of said shapingsurfaces includes a peripheral edge defining a substantially curvilinearhemispheric profile. 1

16. A method of knitting and shaping breast receiving articlescomprising the steps of:

integrally knitting a breast receiving blank from yarns, at least aportion of which are heat setting, said blank having a relatively flatbody portion and two spaced apart relatively conical breast pockets,each of said breast pockets including a relatively flat apex area;

knitting a second breast receiving blank;

securing said second breast receiving blank to the first blank alongrespective transverse portions of the body portion of each blank to forman endless length defined by said blanks;

simultaneously re-orienting a portion of the yarns in said relativelyflat apex area to provide a relatively rounded apex configuration byexerting a shaping force internal of said endless length; and

heat setting said blank to retain said apex areas in said shapedrelatively rounded configuration.

1. A method of knitting and shaping breast receiving articles comprisingthe steps of: integrally knitting a breast receiving blank from yarns,at least a portion of which are heat setting, said blank having arelatively flat body portion and two spaced apart relatively conicalbreast pockets, each of said breast pockets including a relatively flatapex area; knitting a second breast receiving blank; securing saidsecond breast receiving blank to the originally knit blank alongrespective longitudinal selvages of each of said blanks to form a hollowchamber defined by said blanks; simultaneously re-orienting said portionof the yarns in the respective flat apex areas on both of said blanks toprovide a relatively rounded apex configuration by exerting a shapingforce internal of said hollow chamber; and heat setting said blank toretain said apex areas in shaped relatively rounded configuration. 2.The method as claimed in claim 1 wherein said reorientation includes thestep of inserting an elongated flat shaping board having laterallyextending shaped protuberances adapted to shape at least the apex areasof said breast receiving pockets within the chamber formed by saidsecured together blanks.
 3. The method as claimed in claim 2 whereinsaid shaped protuberance of said flat shaping board are extensible andretractable transversely of said board and whereby said shaping board isinserted within said chamber formed by said secured together blanks withsaid protuberances in retracted position, said protuberances beingextended when said board is within said chamber.
 4. The method asclaimed in claim 2 wherein each of said protuberances of said shapingboard include a peripheral contour having a concave outer edge, a convexinner edge, and a concave apex between said outer and inner edges. 5.The method as claimed in claim 1 further including the step of securingone distal end of each of said blanks transversely to provide a closedend chamber defined by said blanks.
 6. The method as claimed in claim 5wherein said reorientation step includes the step of inserting a flatshaping board having laterally extending shaped protuberances adapted toshape at least the apex areas of said breast receiving pockets wIthinsaid flat shaping board includes at least one end portion having aperipheral stepped shape, said last referred to end portion adapted toseat along said closed end of said sewn together blanks.
 7. The methodas claimed in claim 6 wherein said stepped shape is an omega shape. 8.The method as claimed in claim 1 further including the step ofseparating said blanks and incorporating each said blank, after saidheat setting step , as the frontal portion of a brassiere.
 9. The methodas claimed in claim 8 wherein said incorporating step includes the stepsof cutting the outer side edges of each said blank to an inclinedorientation.
 10. The method as claimed in claim 8 wherein saidincorporating step further includes the step of cutting one selvage edgeof each said blank to provide a concave line from first points along thelateral edges of said blank to respective second points along saidselvage spaced apart and laterally offset from the respective apex areasof said blank and cutting a convex line which extends downward throughthe area between said breast receiving pockets between said secondpoints.
 11. The method as claimed in claim 1 wherein the knitting ofsaid blanks is effected by a flat bed full fashioning machine.
 12. Anapparatus for shaping a pair of brassiere blanks comprising an elongatedflat board having at least two shaping surfaces extending laterally ofsaid board, each of said shaping surfaces adapted to stress portions ofone of said blanks in selected areas and at least two additional shapingsurfaces extending laterally of said board along the longitudinal edgeof said board opposed to said first pair of shaping surfaces adapted tostress selected areas of the other said blank.
 13. The apparatus asclaimed in claim 12 wherein one end of said board is stepped.
 14. Theapparatus as claimed in claim 13 wherein said stepped end portiondefines a peripheral omega-like shape.
 15. The apparatus as claimed inclaim 12 wherein each of said shaping surfaces includes a peripheraledge defining a substantially curvilinear hemispheric profile.
 16. Amethod of knitting and shaping breast receiving articles comprising thesteps of: integrally knitting a breast receiving blank from yarns, atleast a portion of which are heat setting, said blank having arelatively flat body portion and two spaced apart relatively conicalbreast pockets, each of said breast pockets including a relatively flatapex area; knitting a second breast receiving blank; securing saidsecond breast receiving blank to the first blank along respectivetransverse portions of the body portion of each blank to form an endlesslength defined by said blanks; simultaneously re-orienting a portion ofthe yarns in said relatively flat apex area to provide a relativelyrounded apex configuration by exerting a shaping force internal of saidendless length; and heat setting said blank to retain said apex areas insaid shaped relatively rounded configuration.